With a few spare hours to spend before the DHO Summer School, I decided to revisit Glasnevin Cemetery and check out the new interpretive centre. As you may remember from my earlier post, there was a grand, but damp ceremony staged to reopen the refurbished crypt of Daniel O’Connell late last year. When there I was impressed by this swoopy modernistic centre being built to welcome visitors to Glasnevin. Well, it opened a few months back and I finally got a chance to visit it.

A little background, to prove I actually visited the centre and took in a little of the knowledge they are dispensing. Glasnevin is a non-denominational cemetery that was opened in 1832 and is the largest cemetery in Ireland. Think Pere Lachaise in a less rolling and less forested surrounding. There are over one million souls buried in Glasnevin.

The new interpretative centre backs on the cemetery walls on Finglas Road. The cemetery itself is surrounded by high walls and even features watchtowers at the corners. The need to protect the inhabitants of the cemetery stems from the nineteenth century grave robbers that preyed upon the bodies of the deceased. The centre is a stunning new addition to the cemetery. The design, although modernistic does seem in harmony with the surroundings, the horizontal expanse fitting in well with the long walls surrounding the cemetery. The building is squat, and although a large edifice, the glass and stone sits well amongst the stone grave markers. There is a €6 entry fee to the museum. This seems a bit high given the paucity of exhibition content offered. There are basically two floors of things to see. On the lower floor (where you start) the theme is a journey under the ground of the cemetery proper…rather like a trip through the catacombs in Paris. The exhibits are well done, but brief. A short widescreen interpretative video is presented to establish the context of the cemetery within Irish history. There is an attempt to allow the guest to connect with the individuals buried in the cemetery through a collection of individual artefacts. The mood of the visit is established with lots of running water and a message relating to the multi-demoninational aspect of the cemetery is presented.

Taking an elevator to the first floor you get to play with some touch screens that take you through the life of Daniel O’Connell. Underneath a wall of windows that face the cemetery are a series of additional screens that choose from a select set of individuals buried at Glasnevin presented as a longitudinal timeline visualisation. As a visitor you can choose to explore biographies by choosing individual names using trackballs (remember those). Additionally (and I think this is rather cool) the timeline morphs into a social network visualisation of the person (node) of interest. Essentially the presentation presents a virtual community of the deceased, but allows you to explore the web of that society. Quite interesting.

The museum ends there. You proceed down the stairs to the ground floor and sandwiched between the two exhibit spaces is the obligatory museum shop and a lovely cafe. It’s a pleasant surrounding, but I am not sure that I have seen this level of heritage management at a cemetery. Quite fascinating.

The day was a fine one and I had a chance to tag along with one of the guided tours of the cemetery itself. Our guide was a very perky sort (in a positive sense) and expressed a wonderful enthusiasm for the history and the people buried in Glasnevin. She took us on a wide ranging tour of the grounds as well as Irish history and how much of it is bound up with the notable individuals buried here. The cemetery itself is a huge space and there are a number of very different spaces within it. Many of the spaces are wonderfully tree-lined in a way similar to Pere Lachaise. Many of the monuments are being restored by the Office of Public Works in Ireland and all in all this creates a very relaxing and specially spiritual environment. Obviously wandering in a cemetery is not for all people, but for those of us that find rooting in historical presence, Glasnevin is a very special place.

An amazingly gorgeous weekend in Ireland and I was invited to join with some friends heading up Lugnaquilla. It’s the highest point in Leinster and so wonderfully accessible from Dublin. I biked out to Stillorgan and we drove down through Wicklow to Glenmalure to begin our ascent. The drive itself is a treat as you pass through some of the most scenic glens and passes. 50 minutes from Dublin we kitted up for the climb. After our outing to Scarr a couple weeks ago, doubling our summits was a heady goal (500m to 975m) – but we were ready for it.

The four of us set out before noon and the day couldn’t have been better for it. The ascent from Glenmalure is in stages; each one a very different experience. After setting of on a trail, we quickly took a shortcut up through a steeper wooded area. That set the tone for the day. Rejoining the trail, we came to our first steep portion marked by a lovely waterfall rushing down probably 75m of exposed rock. The going started to get a bit more challenging as we zigged and zagged amongst rockfalls heading for the first crest. A fine test. Breathing heavily enough we reached the break and were presented with a gently inclined meadow. This is certaily the beauty of hill; walking in Wicklow. The diversity of the landscape. The meadow was crossed by a series of rivulets than meandered, all converging on the watefall at the crest of the hill. The meadow took us towards the north and the gentle peaty surface was a bit of a relief for the knees. The downside is the sogginess and one stays quite aware of footfalls. The gorse had just faded from the bright yellow fragrance that we had a few weeks back, but there was a bright profusion of yellow and purple flowers blooming throughout the meadow to fill the hillside with a subtle and glorious hue. The meadow was surrounded by rockfalls on either side, one the north to Ben Lee and the south by Ben Dun. Both substantial peaks in their own right, and also obscuring our eventual goal of Lugnaquilla.

After an hour or two we eagerly took our first break and sustained ourselves with a light snack. Pushing on our leader decided to take a little more aggressive, steep and challenging incline. Very good for the heart I say. We skirted behind a huge outcropp between the ridge heading for Lug and the other peak at Ben Dun. This led us to one last big push before we reached the flat plateau that gradually led to the highest point on Lug.

At 976m by the iPhone, we had made it in around 3 hours and felt well satisfied with ourselves and deserving of our packed lunches. The sun was shining and the wind was a wee bit cold, but we feasted on a wonderful view.

The trip[ back down was taken at a far more leisurely pace and we were spared the harder decline that we could have sought. We set off along the expansive plateau at the crest of Lug and took a northernly jaunt down at a diagonal to meet the mountain meadow of earlier. Heading for the waterfall asa marker for the decline we actually ended up with a very knee testing descent alongside the waterfall and then crossed over the water at the foot. after the trail we braved the scrub once more and took the short cut off the beaten path arriving back at the car park thrilled with ourselves and exhilarated by a perfect excursion. All we can say now is onward and upward!

ps. Here is a beautiful stone marker at the base of our ascent commemorating those who fought in the 1798 uprising.

Walking into Rinsgend last night I was just struck on what a pleasant evening it was. Here’s a lovely shot looking down the Dodder towards the nearly complete Aviva Stadium with the Dublin Mountains in the background. It occurs that just to the right side of the Stadium you can even see the shape of Sugarloaf off in the distance.

A couple of weeks back I booked a pair of tickets to see Luka Bloom at Vicar Street. I had heard of the venue and catching a big name there seemed like a fine idea. Then I saw in my email from ticketmaster that Art Garfunkel was playing the local venue. Wow! Art Garfunkel live. Checking ticket prices I found they were double normal rates and a bit steep so was reticent about booking. Last night a sweet angel confirmed that seeing Art Garfunkel would be an amazing experience. We figured we’d see how it seemed in the morning and go from there. Unfortunately, although there had been tables and seat available yesterday morning all available today was standing room. €70 for a place to stand seemed a bit steep and was not sure of the venue. Then to complicate matters, my office was broken into last night, so when I arrived today to do a little work I found a lot of glass and bits of pieces of wood, and no laptops. That was troubling enough in itself, determining how to actually proceed in such a situation in a foreign land was an additional challenge. No one from the building was available, then couldn’t reach anyone from my own organisation. So…managed to contact the local police and arranged for a constable to visit. On the upside, we got some good prints and no one was actually injured or the like. So…the distraction of the B&E was a little off putting. It means about 3 months of work down the tubes for me, but now its just a matter of focusing on how to get past it. So, I tried again to get tickets for Mr. Garfunkel. Alas only standing room, despite going to the online site, phoning ticketmaster and the venue itself. As my lovely companion was reticent about standing through the show I was disappointed, but she resolved that we should go for it…and she could not have been more right! I made a couple lamb chops and some sides and after wolfing them down we jumped in a taxi for the venue. Our luck held and sure enough there had been cancelations and we got absolutely awesome table seats on the floor. Vicar Street is an amazing venue. Amazingly intimate. Art Garfunkel gave an stunningly romantic show and spending it with someone special makes the world seem right. A perfect night.

The day dawned bright in Dublin and with contingency set to continue my cultural tour of the north side of the Liffey, I set off early. The day was fresh, but stunningly bright. Lovely, lyrically so, and if I have learned anything from the past few week…when you have the chance, seize it. So at 8am I trundled off on the old (new really, but I use the term endearingly) Trek Urban rider. Destination: Casino Marino. My Bank Manager Niall has suggested the visit on more than one occasion. A passionate north sider he, there’s a less than subtle attempt to convince me to balance my impression of Dublin by straddling the Liffey. I discovered I could be in Kilester in a very short time, and also that that was too far to have gone to find the Casino.
Yes, when he first mentioned it, I thought it was a neon-emblazzed place of gambling. I was actually quite far off. If you followed the link above, you’ll have discovered that the casino is in fact a palace of pleasure, but in this case a neo-classical masterpiece that’s a listed national monument here. It was built by the first Lord Charlemont (also the founder of my employer, the Royal Irish Academy). A casino is a building dedicated to entertainment and impressing acquaintances – I would know it more familiarly as a Belvedere. The Petit Trianon springs to mind as example. Casino Marino is stunningly proportioned, full of wonders and a trip well worth making. I had a private tour by a passionate guide.
I left Clontarf and headed north to Malahide. Eventually the four lane busy highway gave way yo a winding country road, lined with trees. It was an easy, long ride on one of the finest days of recent memory. Up past north of malahide, then a decision to turn around and find a nice lunch. Back through a very busy central Malahide, I passed on towards Portmarnock. The beach was well populated and the sun streamed off the surf. I kept pushing towards Howth, which I also found packed with wanders. I eventually stopped at the Bay Food and Wine for a yummy lunch. starting with some spectacular spring rolls and followed by eggs benedict (I liked the heavier lemon, but found that the more tart goats cheese overwhelmed the salmon). Quaffing some fine Pinot, the brunch was delightful. The only thing lacking was the right company.
A long leisurely brunch challenged my crystalizing plan to visit my man Jimmy in Dun Laoghaire for a trim. Back onto the horse I set off along the Dublin Bay cyclepath at a good click. At one point I sensed another cyclist in my peripheral vision. Not wanting to delay, I cranked up my speed a notch. Next thing I know he cruises up easily to my side and asks if I’d accept a question. I was a little surprised at the ease which he matched my pace, especially as he had a good 20 years on me. Nice chap as it turned out and we shared a good portion of the ride to Dun Laoghaire.
Jimmy’s is a busy parlour on a saturday. When I entered the cramped shop with people spilling onto the sidewalk, a couple of the teenaged boys confessed that they weren’t there for a cut and as it turned out five were there along with a single buddy getting a good trim. Jimmy is a pro. As fast with the scissors as with the blade. He does a fine job, maintains a lively banter and efficiently carries out his trade. He’s a one man bad again. When I last graced his door, he had a young apprentice who has since found a full time gig in the city.
The cut took me to past five and in town I decided I wanted to find a copy of Brian Friel’s Translations at Hughes and Hughes. The Dun Laoghaire outlet is one of the bigger ones. Two stories and featuring a Costa shop on the upper. Costa makes the best latte in town here by my experience thus far, so quickly grabbed a quick one to go. Finding my book and hitching the steed back up, I motored it back to town. Getting home around 6:15 I realized I was pushing it a bit to get to our 8 date to hear the songs of Harold Arlen at the Cobalt cafe, but the day’s activity card was nicely full and satisfying.
All in all, probably travelled a good 50-60 kms today. By a wide margin the longest of my stay here, but an absolutely brilliant day. Mind you, I sense I have probably ended up with some pretty strange shaped tan lines, having not planned for a full day in the sun. Tomorrow will tell the tell physically as well as aesthetically.

Was up to the border this morning via train. A soggy beginning, but the sun won out in the end. We set off south passing through Slane and appreciating the main square where four identical Georgian houses are places octagonally on the main intersection. Very stately.
Armed with a neat new TomTom One GPS unit we set off for Tara. With the sun bursting through we find the sacred hill. There is little scale to the actual mounds themselves. There’s sheep wandering about and many pats to avoid. The moats around the mound are just enough to keep you on your toes, but just grassy knolls really. Now, I had taken a look at pictures of the stone of destiny…and somehow it all seemed much bigger.
But lest ye think that I was dismayed by the scale or setting…it’s a magical experience! The view from the mound is absolutely spectacular…according to accounts you can see all four provinces (kingdoms) from the hill. I am convinced. The vista is amazing. The stone is smaller than expected, but here’s the thing…it pulses with energy. No kidding. I used the stone like a divining rod and could easily feel the energy flowing from it. Now, if things were all as they should be, it should have been wailing…as it is claimed when the true king touches it, it will cry out in a shriek that can be heard throughout the island. For me…it was silent. Imagine my disappointment I was thrilled to visit Tara. What a treat and what a special guide.

The videophone is one for a hasty jaunt through St. Stephen’s Green.

Jaunt Movie (Click to Watch)

We work in a charming Georgian townhouse on Upper Pembroke Street at Fitzwilliam Square in Dublin. The DHO rents a series of offices in here and it isa very pleasant surround. The neighborhood is a busy one, but largely of pedestrians and of tourists. Over the past few weeks we have all been commenting on how many tourist photos we must now be appearing as they let off busloads to marvel at the colourful doors and ornate doorways. There is a large green area in the centre of the square with dense trees surrounding it and charming grassed areas in side. The Georgian terraces are quite impressive and give real sense of a Dublin of days past.

For all of the wonderful architecture, I had, to my chagrin, not dug any deeper into the historical connections with the area. That is, until today. There is a lovely closed park in the centre of Fitzwilliam Square, and I couldn’t figure out how to get in. Well…as it turns out, it is a private park only available to the householders surrounding the park. I am now trying to see if we qualify as such as I can get in. I have just heard back that we do and this feels all so clubbish.
However, when I was wandering about websites to discover the bye laws surrounding the park, I discovered that our address has some greater notoriety. Many of the buildings in the area have little plaques on them, noting famous personages that were born or lived in the the area. Our address is a little more tragic. 28 Upper Pembroke (as well as a couple other houses) were targeted by Michael Collin’s squads during the sweep of Sunday 21 November 1920. These early morning lightning raids were intended to decapitate the british intelligence efforts in Ireland. Throughout the city, british agents whose addresses and whereabouts had been obtained in the weeks previous were hunted down in homes, parks and cafe’s. In the case of 28 Upper Pembroke, a certain Captain Fitzgerald was killed here and papers were found in his possession detailing the movements of senior IRA figures. Apparently four agents were gunned down in this townhouse alone. For those of you that may have seen Neil Jordan’s Michael Collins, these same assassinations were followed by the wanton slaughter of innocent civilians and players at Croke Park during a GAA match.
The War of Independence was fought right on our front steps. Perhaps I will give second thought to working late in the office here. Ohhhh…scary!

I got a new Royaltek RGM-3800 GPS Receiver and Data Logger today. My first tests are very impressive and posted a longer review to Randomosity.

One of the true pleasures of living where I do in Dublin is that I am adjacent to the sea. I was very excited about the possibilty of this befoe arriving and when ooking for a place, being near the coast was quite desirable. Although I am not right on the coast – I’m about a 10 – 15 minute walk – I can see the water from my apartment. Matt moved into his new place yesterday in Merrion Village and he has the enviable 2-3 minute walk to the Strand. Very, very cool. so, to christen his new place, we headed to the sea for a nice stroll…out into the surf. His friend Kristyn is visiting and we all waded about for a spell last evening. Simply perfect. Water was warm and the paragliders were out in force. Sweet.