randomosity

In times past, December visits to Munich have been warmed by new fallen snow and the glowing booths of the Christkindlmarkt. Munich this year had yet to see snow and the temperatures of 7/8C and rain seemed somehow less festive. People were still out in huge numbers socialising at the various markets about town, but the lack of snow was a literal damperon the occassion. So when I decided that the day was nigh to head off south to make my very first visit to the Konigschloss’s in the Schwangau, I was hopeful. I expected similar weather, but also enchanting architecture and scenery.
As the slow regional train departed Munich first thing in the morning, Munich was a little grey, dry, but grey and overcast.

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Atzinger Gästhaus - 12 December 2007 - 14:00
I happened across some notes I jotted down while enjoying some wonderful pork stew at this little restaurant.
Munich is rather wet this year. It is a bit of a dampener - literally. The thing about this place though is the wonderful bustle. There’s people out and about. Certainly at the times of day that I am. It’s not crazy crowded - that would bother me a tad - it’s what I would describe as comfortably kinetic and a very diverse crowd. I am in the university area of Schwabbing today and there is a very discernible undergrad aged presence, but not overwhelmingly so. There always seems to be a younger component about, but it tends to be younger than university age in the core. There seems to be less English spoken since I was last here. Not a bad thing, merely an observation. Am finding that I am struggling with German - this also more of a struggle than a decade ago. Strangely have been mistaken for French on a number of occassions - strange. Guess it’s why my research people thought I speak Chinese with a Korean accent ;-)
The architecture in the area is a strange dichotomy of kitschy-southern German Alpine - some more ornate with stucco or francy brick pediments and towers - opposing ultra-modern glass and steel brutality. The steel always dark with a bronzy patina. The food is all so rich. How do these people stay thin???

Was out to the kino to catch something that I could claim as some degree of exposure to the German media scene. The redlight district probably could have provided some special, ;-) experiences, but went the other way. What are the kids watching - something German only. I found ‘Lissi und der wilde kaiser. It advertises itself as a parodie of the classic ‘Sissi’. I can only say that it takes serious license. As it turns out, it’s aimed at a little more mature audience than the normal animated show goer. I booked early. Circumstances. And with German efficiency had an assigned aisle and seat. Showed up close to time as I recalled that there is a sufficient period in advance with commercials, not trailers. Inside there’s three people in a 150 person theatre. My seat if right beside them. Another couple girls 13-15 come in and sit on the otherside of my 13-15 year old male friends.
Two adults come in. They are the seats in front of my colleagues. I can see that there is a system in the seat assignment process…but it sucks. Its starts from best seat and starts assigning in all directions. so you get 15 people all sitting right adjacent to one another despite 100 extra seats. And my German cimenagoers just went with it.
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Well, here I sit at the Flughaffen Frankfurt. Its about 8am, and we got in a little ahead of schedule at 6:45am. No sleep, but then I decided that that would be best in the end and forewent the schlaffendrage (sic). Feel a wee bit fatigued, but not too bad yet. The 777 is a pretty sweet ride. The entertainment system has all the choices you could want for any length of flight. Seat pitch about the same, but it was one bumpy ride most of the way. Its just lightening up in FRA and I have a rather lengthy layover. Tried to move to an earlier flight as there are Lufthansa flights for München every hour, but they tell me that with my fare, I would have to pay a hefty surcharge. Not quite sure where the airline economy is in that, but alas. We’ll just kick back for a bit and wait it out.
Frankfurt always seems (and is absolutely) removed from nationality. Everyone is on their way somewhere or in between places. Its has that transient feeling about it.
Saw the final Pirates of the Caribbean, which was amusing then watched a string of sitcoms, including a British one about paleontologists dealing with dinosaurs in modern day England and a US one called 10 items of Less which seemed quite good as well. A couple Office episodes, a Eureka and ‘Til death. All good.
English is spoken in the airport here more than German it seems, but then that seems to be the memory for here. About an hours walk to get where I am in the terminal. We shall see what we find in München.
No wireless in the terminal that I can find.

Eamonn pointed me to press release on a rather jarring new TV channel offering in Germany. Etos TV Mourning Channel is a 24/7 broadcast of video obituaries, short videos of the deceased as well as documentaries on cemeteries and on funeral practise. My first reaction was one of amazement - one that a broadcaster would propose such a channel and two that anyone could be expected to tune in. Although, not something I would expect to find myself watching, on reflection, there is much more to this story.
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As the weatherman forecasts that the temperature will reach its hottest thus far this year (28C is warm enough for me), I am linking to the remnants of a trip journal to Munich during winter 1998. The HTML is a wee bit broken, but its largely there - badly scanned photos and campy commentary ;-) I am appreciating being cast back into the chilly warmth of a Christmas season past. I used to take a week away in early December and go to Munich for the Christmas Market there. I have fond memories and really love Munich. Apart from a very strange sojourn there in 1990, didn’t ever make it there in the summer until 2001. The Englischergarten, which I am sure I have mentioned in a part post, is a magical place. But in the winter, Bavaria and Munich becomes a wondrous winter kingdom. I am not certain that my pictures capture the essence, but I share them in hope that they might. I will have to clean up the HTML at some point - I was however loathe to alter it. Its simplicity is reflective of where things were then. Rather like going back to your primary school drawings and ‘improving’ them. Just doesn’t seem cricket ;-)

(if this image is just a pretty palace, click refresh to reload the animated gif and enjoy a quick look at the rebuilding of the schloss)

I am always both fascinated and charmed to see an older building lovingly restored and doubly so when its role is thoughtfully reconsidered and creatively re-purposed. The magnificent ducal place in Braunschweig has been carefully reconstructed and redeveloped as part of a shopping arcade in the city centre. The palace itself was torn down in 1960 following years of gradual disintegration and bomb damage during the WWII that left much of the city centre devastated. Although remnants of the old palace were used in the reconstruction begun in 2005, the bulk of the construction material is new. Despite this, the effect overall effect of the reconstruction is gorgeous, and tribute to the craftsmanship of those involved. There have been a number of critics that feel that such a building should only be used as museum or a public non-commercial space. I heartily disagree.

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