In times past, December visits to Munich have been warmed by new fallen snow and the glowing booths of the Christkindlmarkt.
Munich this year had yet to see snow and the temperatures of 7/8C and rain seemed somehow less festive. People were still out in huge numbers socialising at the various markets about town, but the lack of snow was a literal damperon the occassion. So when I decided that the day was nigh to head off south to make my very first visit to the Konigschloss’s in the Schwangau, I was hopeful. I expected similar weather, but also enchanting architecture and scenery.
As the slow regional train departed Munich first thing in the morning, Munich was a little grey, dry, but grey and overcast.
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Atzinger Gästhaus - 12 December 2007 - 14:00
I happened across some notes I jotted down while enjoying some wonderful pork stew at this little restaurant.
Munich is rather wet this year. It is a bit of a dampener - literally.
The thing about this place though is the wonderful bustle. There’s people out and about. Certainly at the times of day that I am. It’s not crazy crowded - that would bother me a tad - it’s what I would describe as comfortably kinetic and a very diverse crowd. I am in the university area of Schwabbing today and there is a very discernible undergrad aged presence, but not overwhelmingly so. There always seems to be a younger component about, but it tends to be younger than university age in the core. There seems to be less English spoken since I was last here. Not a bad thing, merely an observation. Am finding that I am struggling with German - this also more of a struggle than a decade ago. Strangely have been mistaken for French on a number of occassions - strange. Guess it’s why my research people thought I speak Chinese with a Korean accent ;-)
The architecture in the area is a strange dichotomy of kitschy-southern German Alpine - some more ornate with stucco or francy brick pediments and towers - opposing ultra-modern glass and steel brutality. The steel always dark with a bronzy patina. The food is all so rich. How do these people stay thin???
Was out to the kino to catch something that I could claim as some degree of exposure to the German media scene.
The redlight district probably could have provided some special, ;-) experiences, but went the other way. What are the kids watching - something German only. I found ‘Lissi und der wilde kaiser. It advertises itself as a parodie of the classic ‘Sissi’. I can only say that it takes serious license. As it turns out, it’s aimed at a little more mature audience than the normal animated show goer. I booked early. Circumstances. And with German efficiency had an assigned aisle and seat. Showed up close to time as I recalled that there is a sufficient period in advance with commercials, not trailers. Inside there’s three people in a 150 person theatre. My seat if right beside them. Another couple girls 13-15 come in and sit on the otherside of my 13-15 year old male friends.
Two adults come in. They are the seats in front of my colleagues. I can see that there is a system in the seat assignment process…but it sucks. Its starts from best seat and starts assigning in all directions. so you get 15 people all sitting right adjacent to one another despite 100 extra seats. And my German cimenagoers just went with it.
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One thing that really strikes me and I’m not sure I was as conscious of it before was that English holds a strange place here. There is the unique fascination with certain words that seem totem and symbolic rather than literal. In many cases, the words chosen have no context in English (don’t make sense), its almost as if they are perceived as more resonant when written in English. You see descriptive terms on clothing for example that are solid such as skiing on a jacket. Otherwise there are of course many words that may even have originated from German roots and are now borrowed back from the English. These have formed many of the words I have chosen to contribute to Geoffrey Rockwell’s Dictionary of Words in the Wild.
Well, here I sit at the Flughaffen Frankfurt. Its about 8am, and we got in a little ahead of schedule at 6:45am.
No sleep, but then I decided that that would be best in the end and forewent the schlaffendrage (sic). Feel a wee bit fatigued, but not too bad yet. The 777 is a pretty sweet ride. The entertainment system has all the choices you could want for any length of flight. Seat pitch about the same, but it was one bumpy ride most of the way. Its just lightening up in FRA and I have a rather lengthy layover. Tried to move to an earlier flight as there are Lufthansa flights for München every hour, but they tell me that with my fare, I would have to pay a hefty surcharge. Not quite sure where the airline economy is in that, but alas. We’ll just kick back for a bit and wait it out.
Frankfurt always seems (and is absolutely) removed from nationality. Everyone is on their way somewhere or in between places. Its has that transient feeling about it.
Saw the final Pirates of the Caribbean, which was amusing then watched a string of sitcoms, including a British one about paleontologists dealing with dinosaurs in modern day England and a US one called 10 items of Less which seemed quite good as well. A couple Office episodes, a Eureka and ‘Til death. All good.
English is spoken in the airport here more than German it seems, but then that seems to be the memory for here. About an hours walk to get where I am in the terminal. We shall see what we find in München.
No wireless in the terminal that I can find.
Speaking with Matt Leighninger this morning I was reminded of one of my best tips for those looking for offbeat sights in Paris - the military models at the Musée de l’Armée.
The museum is a treasure. A grande promenade stretching from the Seine leads up to the building. The courtyards are filled with captured and antique canons…hundreds of them. The canons are often works of the craftsmen’s art. Inside the museum are amazing collections of all things military stretching from earliest times to the present. There are guided tours, expositions and of course Napoleon’s Tomb adjoins the museum proper in L’Eglise du dôme. The museum is enormous and can easily occupy the better part of a day for the day.
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One of the most fascinating stores in Paris and well worth a visit is Colette. The location is prime
- along rue Saint-Honoré near the Place du Marche Saint-Honoré. Colette carries a wonderfully eclectic inventory of things amazing. catering to a diverse clientèle from the curious, the tourist to the glitteratti, the hand-picked items in store are displayed creatively and offer the finest of the trendiest.
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Having just returned from one of my favourite cities in the world, I was fascinated to find a Paris Metro Virtual Experience. This media-rich site offers wonderful history of the Paris Metro and the opportunity to take a virtual tour with static images and rel-time soundtrack along a number of lines. Additionally, the author of the site has completed station by station architectural mosaics of particular lines. If you have ever had the opportunity to travel on the metro (arguably one of the most efficiently run systems in the world) this site may bring back some memories.
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As the weatherman forecasts that the temperature will reach its hottest thus far this year (28C is warm enough for me), I am linking to the remnants of a trip journal to Munich during winter 1998. The HTML is a wee bit broken, but its largely there - badly scanned photos and campy commentary ;-) I am appreciating being cast back into the chilly warmth of a Christmas season past. I used to take a week away in early December and go to Munich for the Christmas Market there. I have fond memories and really love Munich. Apart from a very strange sojourn there in 1990, didn’t ever make it there in the summer until 2001. The Englischergarten, which I am sure I have mentioned in a part post, is a magical place. But in the winter, Bavaria and Munich becomes a wondrous winter kingdom. I am not certain that my pictures capture the essence, but I share them in hope that they might. I will have to clean up the HTML at some point - I was however loathe to alter it. Its simplicity is reflective of where things were then. Rather like going back to your primary school drawings and ‘improving’ them. Just doesn’t seem cricket ;-)
When in Montreal, one must savour the fine eating opportunities and I am thrilled to report that I stumbled across a winner. Rumi is a Persian/Sufi restaurant located in Mile’s End at the corner of Hutchison and Fairmount. It has a charming terrasse and absolutely yummy food.
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Well, Me. My name is Shawn Day and I am a PhD student in the History Department at 




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